Omonia Deli & Bakery
Naysayers told me before I moved here that I wouldn’t find good Latin American food in Jackson. But I’ve already had great tacos and pupusas in the area, and now I’ve found empanadas, so I’m pretty much golden.
Omonia (1290 E. County Line Road, Ridgeland) is a Mexican/Colombian deli and bakery that must have very recently replaced a Quiznos, as you can see from the sign. This is Omonia’s second location; they also have a spot in Pearl (466 N. Bierdeman Rd.) that I haven’t tried. I’m just glad they were able to expand up north, closer to me.
We didn’t sample from the case of baked goods because this was an unplanned, pre-lunch detour. (We were actually on our way to lunch when my eagle eye caught the makeshift sign and I was able to convince my boyfriend that four meals in one day never killed anyone).
But of course we couldn’t pass up the tacos. We got one taco al pastor and one taco de lomo (pork tenderloin). The lomo was a bit dry but the al pastor was quite good–nice and spicy, and with plenty of pineapple. The tortillas were not fresh and a bit wrinkly, which definitely detracted from the taco experience.
The beef empanada more than made up for the tacos’ deficiencies. The outside was one of the crispiest things I’ve ever eaten.
The stuffing consisted of brisket, potatoes, green onions, plus some mystery spices that seemed to include cumin. I would guess that it was slow-cooked because of the richness and depth of flavor. The accompanying salsa was not quite like any salsa I’ve had before; we were told it was a Colombian style, and it had a very clean taste of raw vegetables.
The menu also included several other options, such as baleadas (a Honduran specialty) and sincronizadas. Both of those use flour tortillas, which may very well be better than the corn tortillas used for the tacos, so I plan to try them next time. At least if they’re not great, I’ll always have the empanadas!