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Local 463

Posted by YAR 15 Jul 2010 6 Comments

Last month, Derek Emerson (of Walker’s Drive-In) opened  Local 463 (121A Colony Crossing Way, Madison). Given the local love for Walker’s, I’m sure expectations for Local 463 were high.  But judging by the crowds at Local 463 both times I’ve been, people have not been disappointed.

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Local 463 is a little rich for my blood for a random mid-week solo dinner. But even if you’re not up for a $20-something entree, there is something for you at Local 463—namely, pizza.

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From the three pizza options, I chose the Florida rock shrimp and fried green tomato ($12).  Although it is listed in the “First Bites” portion of the menu, it was plenty for dinner for me.  There were quite a lot of ingredients on the pizza, but I was thoroughly impressed with how well they all worked together.  The tomatoes added a slight tartness, which contrasted well with the subtly rich “truffled cheese” and the salty bacon lardons.  The crust itself, which was char-grilled,was neither flimsy nor tough; I thought it had a great chewy consistency, and maybe a hint of sourness (which I liked).

I also got a house salad, which was fairly disappointing.  I think my expectations may have been too high, because a friend had highly praised his salad at Local 463.  Maybe they changed the preparation or I ordered the wrong salad, but this was nothing special.  I could hardly taste the sweet peppers, squash and zucchini (I think they were cut too small), and the lemon vinaigrette didn’t seem to have enough acidity.  The Alabama goat cheese, though, was amazing.

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I sat at the bar — even on a Tuesday for an early dinner, I doubt I could have gotten a table without a reservation.  The bar, though crowded at times, had very high turnover because most of the people there were just briefly waiting for their tables to be ready.  The service atmosphere was kind of hectic, but very friendly — I imagine things are at least a little calmer in the dining room.  But I quite liked the atmosphere in the bar area, which was modern and bright (thanks to a wall of windows).

The lunch menu also looks tempting and includes some more affordable options.   They are open Monday through Saturday for lunch (11-2) and dinner (5-9ish); the number is (601) 707-7684.

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